Saturday, August 30, 2014

Black Shoe Road Test Part 2 - Monk Strap Shoes from Marks and Spencer


Welcome to the second in my series of 3 reviews of road testing formal black shoes (dress shoes). As part of my review I wanted to test a pair of shoes which have leather soles and leather uppers, but are not Goodyear Welted. I was curious to see how well they stood up to day-to-day walking, rain and wet conditions.

I have considered obtaining a pair of monk strap shoes for some time and purchased a pair of suede ones from Marks and Spencer last year. I liked the style, the fit, and the slim line of the shoe lends itself to a narrow cut of trouser I favour – especially with cords. I decided to return to Marks and Spencer to acquire a black leather pair of monk straps.

My first impression of the shoe was how lightweight it felt. Although the leather uppers felt solid in construction the leather (in comparison to the other shoes I am testing from Jones and Samuel Windsor) is very thin. In additional the soles, because they lack the robustness of a Goodyear Welted construction also lacked a certain robustness. The sizing was also a little small and I found I needed an extra half size to add to the length of the shoe.


After their first 6 weeks of wear here are the findings:
  • Polishing. Following the same cleaning format I have adopted with the other shoes (saddle soap, shoe cream and then wax polish) these shoes are top of the list. They polish extremely well and have developed a mirror like sheen on the toe caps.
  • Comfort. Despite how thin the leather uppers originally felt the leather is now developing a softness and is moulding to my foot very comfortably.
  • The soles. I am convinced the soles will not last long, they are after just 6 weeks already feeling vulnerable. Although, I must say they kept my feet relatively dry during a walk in some very wet conditions. I suspect I will be having them re-soled within their first six months (I did take another pair of thin leather soled shoes from Marks and Spencer to my local shoe repair shop recently and he was able to replace the soles with a much thicker sole – this photograph demonstrates the excellent job he was able to undertake).
  • The look. I cannot fault the look of these shoes – now they are polished and gleaming they look classic and timeless and work well with my suits (especially my dark blue pinstripes). The gentle creasing appearing on the uppers is adding to their individualism and character. Once they have some more robust soles on I suspect they will be even better.
  • Price. I paid £55 ($80) for them and would rate them as good value for money for a leather shoe. 


I know I need to add another £20 soon for new soles, but I believe I have shoe here that will last for many years to come. 


Monday, August 25, 2014

Black Shoe Road Test Part 1: Handmade Leather Shoes for only £39 - Can they be any good?



Shoes are to me what handbags are to my beautiful wife – I would happily own hundreds of them if I could! However, I am also fussy about my shoes. For example the upper part of the shoe must be made of leather, they should have leather soles, and they should have a style or shape which is not extreme (no square toes!), so they will be useful for many years to come.

I am slowly building a new collection of black shoes for office wear, now I have started in my new CEO role in London. A typical day can involve over an hour of walking, many hours sitting on trains, being in an office, short aircraft flights to and from Europe and some more lengthy trips to Africa and the Americas. I need robust shoes. But, in line with my emerging sense of middle aged style, I want them to be classic in shape and design – and most importantly they need to be cost effective.

I have been road testing three pairs of shoes over the past 6 weeks and wanted to present my initial findings of the first pair from a mail order company called Samuel Windsor.

First the company. I first heard of Samuel Windsor in the newspaper The Daily Telegraph. They run a series of advertisements throughout the year in the newspaper, ranging from cotton and linen suits and jackets, hats, shirts, but I always remember them for the shoe advert. The image they use makes the shoes look rather ‘frumpy’ and uninspiring (and the advertisement often seems to appear on the same page as those for ‘comfortable shoes’, ‘stretch waist band trousers’ and ‘Tilley Hats’ – all the items that scream “You are now 50+ so you should now dress age appropriately”!!).

However, on this occasion I noticed the sale price - £39.95 ($60). So, now the risk was only £43 (including the postage) per pair of shoes – it seemed the moment to order a pair.

Ordering on line was easy and efficient, there was a range of sizes to select from and even an express delivery option. I opted for standard delivery and placed my order on a Sunday evening – the shoes arrived Wednesday!


Opening the box the first thing that hits you is the smell of leather – very intense, but obviously a good sign. My pair of black brogues came with a shoe horn and a spare pair of good quality laces. The leaflet in the box explained the shoes were ‘handmade with pride by craftsmen’ and 'made almost exclusively by hand'. They added 'it takes over 100 individual processes and up to four weeks to produce each pair' The leaflet concluded with a rubber stamped signature of the person who made my shoes.

They had Goodyear Welted leather soles, leather uppers, leather lined. On the tongue of the shoe a small loop had been stitched in to allow the last line of shoe lace to be threaded through, helping with a firm fit of the shoes across the upper part of my foot. They are a classic shape, a slim brogue, and are far better in real life than the photograph in the advertisement portrayed them. See their youtube video:


The leather was very stiff, and had a comfortable degree of thickness to it. Was I really holding such a well made pair of shoes for which I had paid less than £40?

So the road test. I followed Justin ‘The Shoe Snob’s’ advice in caring for new shoes and cleaned the shoes first with saddle soap to help soften and nourish the leather (his excellent blog post is here). Then applied some black shoe cream, followed by several layers of shoe wax polish. A shine eventually began to appear. I paid particular attention to the toe area, as (being ex-military) I like a shine to my toe caps! I have then repeated the process once a week. Here I must say I am disappointed so far. I am finding it very difficult to get a true mirror-like shine. The other two shoes I am testing (these will feature in two later posts) have after the first month a high gloss finish – not my Samuel Windsors. Yes, they are ‘polished’ but not shining. I will though keep up the routine and assess again after a few months.


I added my own purple laces!

In terms of comfort I am impressed. The stiffness of the leather was noticeable on the first day, but the continued use of the saddle soap and wearing them once or twice a week (my working days are long and I am wearing the shoes from 6 am through to 9 pm) has helped to gently soften them. They are slowly moulding to the shape of my foot and my style of walking. That is the glory of all leather shoes.



If the shoes eventually respond to the polishing I will definitely purchase another pair, possibly several. I am very impressed. I do have to finish though with one complaint. I wanted to find out more about the construction of the shoes (for example where are they made?) so I emailed Samuel Windsor and asked for some background information. I never received a reply. I also added a customer review on the website stating they had not replied to my email - the posting has been removed! Are they trying to hide something about the process? 

(August 30th. Since publishing this review Samuel Windsor did reply to my email. Here is the text:
"Hello Mr Hollingsworth

Thank you for your email, and please accept my apologies that you did not receive a reply without prompting. The enquiry seems to have been closed on our system without reply, and I can only presume this was due to an operator error.

I have read through your blog, and would like to thank you for considering us for this comparison test. It is good to hear that you are pleased with the shoes and I trust they are serving you well.
Our Goodyear welted shoes are made in India using the finest  leathers, and the factory we use makes exclusively for Samuel Windsor. The process follows the traditional Goodyear Welted construction. The  factory is now in its third generation of family ownership retaining the skills and knowledge necessary to produce a quality, traditionally made shoe, at affordable prices.

We are more than happy for you to use these comments on your excellent blog, and if you need any further information please do not hesitate to get in touch.

Once again, apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I do hope this has not shown us in too dim a light in your view!

NB: Please ensure that any replies to this email contain all previous correspondence.

Kind Regards

Derek Whinstance
Customer Service Advisor"

Wednesday, August 6, 2014

A Versatile Tie - The Red Knitted Silk



I am always on the look out for classic items (with a little contemporary twist to them), especially if I can find them in a sale! As an example I have always admired the knitted silk tie and several years ago managed to acquire a dark blue tie from an Armani outlet in Palm Springs (read my previous post here). I recently acquired my second knitted silk tie - at Marks and Spencer of all places!

It is a dark red, almost burgundy, but unlike my Armani version this one has a square end – hence the more classic feel to it. It is constructed extremely well. The neck section has a silk lining which allows it to sit/hang perfectly and provides the perfect start point to tie it at the correct length (so the end of the tie rests on the waist band of my trousers). It is 6 cm wide, mid way between the normal width of a tie and the latest trend for very skinny ties – a good compromise, and unlikely to look dated for many years to come.




It also has an interesting sheen to it, which I am taking as an indication of the quality of the silk knit. In a very short space of time it has become my go-to tie. What I especially like about knitted silk is how it can be worn with almost any style of clothing. Here are some images of the tie with soft collared oxford shirt, the same shirt with a cotton jacket and a more formal suit and shirt.








Knitted silk ties are enjoying something of a revival and are therefore much easier to find - TM Lewin for example has a very good selection. Finally, I only paid £15 ($23) for it in the sales. One tie, so many options, and it looks good in all seasons. Classic!

Tuesday, July 22, 2014

An alternative summer hat


For my current extended visit to England certain items of clothing, because of space restrictions, did not make the final cut for packing. One such item was my aged Panama Hat (see my previous post here). With the English summer already much hotter than I anticipated life without a decent summer hat has proved unbearable. Because I do not need a replacement Panama just yet I did not want to go to the expense of purchasing a new one – I therefore set out to find an affordable alternative, very much in keeping with my focus on writing about classic clothing and accessories at affordable levels!

I want to introduce you to the paper hat, in a classic Panama style. I am not sure exactly how these hats are constructed – I suspect they are massed produced in a form of moulding from paper and the inner and outer bands are then added.


I found this particular hat in the store Debenhams, reduced in price to just £10 ($15), but I have seen them in many stores and outlets for no more than an average of £15. With a traditional Panama ranging from £50 ($75) to £200 ($300) this seems a great price point. So, I have been ‘road testing’ the hat now for a few weeks. The findings:
  • The hat was originally shaped with a rolled down rim. I personally do not like such a style, preferring my hat to look more ‘trilby’ like with a rolled up back rim and rolled down frontal rim. The paper construction allows for moulding any shape you like. I found I could easily bend the rim, moisten it a little with cold water and then grip it in my hand and after a few minutes the desired shape was fixed.
    Rim rolled down

    Rear rim rolled up
  • The hat is very lightweight and, like a Panama, you hardly feel you are wearing it.
  • The weave is open, allowing for maximum ventilation.
  • The inner band is fabric and is useful for absorbing the moisture (or perspiration) from one’s head.
  • The paper construction does give the hat a certain stiffness in the crown, which leaves me a little nervous it may rip or tear if handled too aggressively.
  • It certainly looks sharp, classic and stylish. From a distance you could easily take it for a classic Panama.

Summary:
  • I like the classic look.
  • Will it last rough handling?
  • It is very affordable.
  • It is comfortable and can be worn for extended periods.
  • It is functional in that it does keep the sun at bay.

If you are looking to try wearing a classic hat for the first time and are reluctant to initially invest in a traditional Panama this hat is the perfect solution for you.

If you are a hat wearer already and need a summer hat you can ‘knock about’ and not worry about spoiling (perhaps on the beach or garden) this could also be for you.

Or if like me you have not packed yours on a trip or vacation and need an affordable stylish alternative then look no further! I am impressed.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

A great value summer jacket


Regular readers may recall my challenges two summers ago trying to purchase a light weight blue jacket (read the post here). The search had started in 2010, and I only found exactly what I wanted in August 2012! On a recent visit to London I decided to check out a few stores and see if it is any easier in 2014 to find a light weight summer jacket. The answer is yes and no!

I should first establish my ‘rules’ for the perfect summer jacket:

  • It should be light weight (no padding in the shoulders).
  • It can be lined as long as the lining does not make the jacket too bulky.
  • It should not cost more than £150 ($220).
  • It must be made of natural fibres such as cotton or linen (no polyester!).
  • The shape and cut must be classic - i.e. it will look stylish for years.
I visited H&M, UNIQLO, John Lewis and Mango (the cotton jackets at Mango retailed at only £50 came very close to meeting all the criteria - they were let down by the length of the jacket being just too short - not by much, another inch would have made them ‘classic’ rather than ‘trendy’). If you are unsure what a classic versus trendy jacket is (in my language) here is an image of a middle aged man in a trendy jacket:


The most impressive results came from Marks and Spencer. Here are some images from the trip:

Cotton jacket from Mango

Cotton jacket from Mango

My favourite find was a linen line of jackets in the Collezione line. Apart from the excellent fit, the jacket retailed at an impressive £119 and also came in three colours (blue, tan and stone) with the option of also purchasing a pair of trousers in the same colour for £45. This would enable you to purchase a linen suit for just £164. Moreover, if you purchased the blue and one of the other colours as two suits you could mix and match giving you an additional two further dress options.



Two of the jackets from Marks and Spencer

I know Marks and Spencer is working hard to improve its offerings and I must confess to being very impressed with the SS14 collection. My only criticism is the store experience - as my BW continued to point out the layout of the store meant we could not find ‘jackets’ all in one place. We kept having to move around the store finding them in many different places - very frustrating - and I am sure when we left the store we had still not found all the jackets they had to offer!

Finally I know I have a reputation for being conservative in my style choices, but I was very drawn to another jacket in the Sartorial line, also made of linen, (£129) which would certainly take me out of the zone. 





The small touches on this jacket of the white button hole on the lapel, the white cuff and jacket buttons, and the ticket pocket made this a very desirable jacket. Perhaps on my next visit..........






Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Polo Shirts - quality or quantity?

A while ago I wrote a short piece about my 4 Lacoste polo shirts I have owned since 2007 (read it here). They are still in good shape - a fine example of a quality item serving as an investment. With the summer season approaching, and now in the UK rather than North America, and continuing my search for affordable quality, I have started to look at adding to my summer wardrobe - starting with some more polo shirts.

My natural choice would have been to stay with Lacoste - they have not let me down in the past. However, I have found the cost of Lacoste polo shirt in the UK is a staggering £75 ($120), which does not fit in with my current philosophy of style and quality at an affordable rate - I could purchase three excellent formal shirts from TM Lewin for the same price as one Lacoste shirt. There is something wrong with this equation!
image from Lacoste

So I am road testing and deconstructing alternative polo shirts! Last year I purchased a few polo shirts from Joe Fresh in Canada. Last month I purchased 2 polo shirts from H&M here in the UK. Here are the early results:

Fabric:

Both are made from 100% cotton pique, the same as Lacoste. The Lacoste does feel very slightly thicker in comparison and has a little more 'give' or stretch in the fabric. However, this slight difference is hardly noticeable.

image from H&M
Cut:

The H&M and Joe polo shirts have a straight hem with a side split. This matches the Lacoste. The benefit of the straight hem is to be able to wear the shirt tucked in or out (a hem with a longer 'tail' looks  strange to me - rather like having a beaver tail!).
Straight hem with side split
They also have ribbed edge short sleeves, with a seam length from under the arm of 5cm on Joe and 4cm on H&M. However the H&M sleeve has an outer length of 19cm compared to the Joe length of 17cm. 2cm difference may not seem like much, but it gives the H&M shirt sleeves a greater sense of being parallel when worn. The Lacoste is 5cm inner and 19cm outer.



Construction:

Both shirts have a re-inforced shoulder seam and side seams under the arms. Lacoste is the same.
shoulder seam

Length:

Joe started out as 73cm long and H&M at 72cm. After washing the Joe has shrunk to 65cm! H&M shrunk to 70cm.
image from Joe

Cost:

H&M retails at £7.99 ($12.50) and Joe at $13.50 (£8.50).

Summary:

My one complaint (for as long as I can remember!) is that polo shirts lose their shape after one season of washing (the Joe one lost its shape after the first few washes!). It means they shrink in length and in doing so lose the original designed long shape and just look box-like. It also means you lose the option to tuck the shirt in should you wish.

My Lacoste shirts have never shrunk - that is why I like them. However, now I have found in H&M a comparable shirt which, whilst it may lack the quality of the Lacoste cotton, still holds it shape, feels soft, and frankly looks better than its £7.99 price tag.

If I therefore treat this an investment I can:

1. Purchase one Lacoste shirt for £75, knowing it will last me at least 6 years (based on my past purchases), giving me an annual cost of £12.50.

2. Purchase three H&M shirts for a total of £23.97 and keep them for 2 or 3 years - the same investment total of the Lacoste shirt.

With yearly changes to 'in-style' colours (this year seeming to favouring light aqua for example) changing polo shirts each year to keep updated can be an expensive business. My suggestion is to purchase three Lacoste shirts in classic colours (perhaps, one per year to spread the cost in navy blue, white, red) and then use the likes of H&M to vary a few seasonal colours.

And, finally, who knows how long these cheaper shirts will eventually last? They could last longer than 3 years, so you can always use them for gardening, golf, beach wear or even donate them to a charity shop!


Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Beware of advertising - The search for affordable quality continues

In a recent post (read it here) I wrote about my new search for quality clothing and how to achieve quality at an affordable price for the middle aged man. My search recently took me back to a retailer of my youth, through the lure of advertising. It was a disappointing return!

I went to visit Burtons Menswear. 


Burtons originally opened in 1904. By 1945/6 it is estimated one in four men in the United Kingdom owned a suit from Burtons. They went on to dominate the high street in the 1970s as a stylish place to go and, as a 16 year old, I purchased my first suit from Burtons in 1977, and then remained loyal to them for a few years. I seem to remember that my suits were branded in those days as 'Pure New Wool' - wool suits being the epitome of style.


I noticed an advert in one of the Sunday newspaper supplements effectively announcing that 'Burtons was back'. The full page advert  contained the following lines:

"Burtons offers serious covetable pieces for those who have outgrown spray on jeans and a slogan T-shirt."
"Ageless classics."
"The collection of classic suits is still here."
"We pay attention to the details buying in only the best."


So into the store I went. It was still in the same location as 1977 but now shared the premises with a women's clothing outfit (Dorothy Perkins). First impressions were that it was nothing like the store in 1977 where suits then dominated the window display! I weaved my way past tables of T-shirts and polo shirts, racks of faded jeans, cargo shorts etc, the most haphazard dysfunctional layout imaginable - I could not walk more than two paces in a straight line.

At the back of the store I found the suits. Oh dear! Now I am not yet a real clothing snob, but I could smell the polyester in the air! I checked every one of their suits, looking at the label (when I could find it hidden inside the pocket) and every single one was made of a minimum of 80% polyester. I did not find one single wool suit. The tiny one inch wide lapels on the suit jackets were so thin - all of my ties were wider than those lapels! But, in fairness to you the reader, I felt I should at least try a jacket on. 


The jacket for my size was so short in length that the waist felt it was almost around my chest. The length of the jacket only covered half my seat and the arm holes were cut so small I could barely move my arms without the whole polyester body of the jacket moving with me - hardly a 'classic' look. I also tried the 'scrunch' test - I gripped the jacket sleeve in my hand for a few seconds and then let it go -  rumpled creases marked the spot of the squeeze. Imagine what it would look like after a days wear!

I left the store of choice of my youth, that once offered only pure new wool suits, 
somewhat sad to see they now offered nothing more than polyester - yet still thought they could brand them as "classic suits" and "only the best". There was absolutely no way these were "serious covetable pieces". I did check the Burtons' website when I returned home and managed to find just one wool suit. Again the style was the very short cut in the jacket and very slim fitting trousers. This extreme fashion is not going to last more than a few years and is not worth investing in. 
Image from Burtons

These suits were selling at a price of £138 ($220), and on sale at £71 ($113). So yes they are affordable, but what do you really get? Hardly a piece of clothing you can wear for years to come. Who, in their middle, discerning, age wants to dress in cheap polyester material and part with £138 in the process? 

As a comparison a quick check around other websites found Charles Tyrwhitt. Here I could get a 100% wool suit, working cuff buttons, half canvas construction jacket, on sale for only £229 ($336) - and they, like TM Lewin, always seem to have a sale! (Note: I will be reviewing these suits for you in a future post).
Image from Charles Tyrwhitt

Comparing the two options of Burtons and CT reminds me of the notes I made in my journal when I began this quality search process. I said to myself in buying quality I am investing, I'm trying to create a wardrobe that will last and serve me in the long term, yet still give me a classic and stylish look. 

Sorry but  a cheap polyester suit for £138 branded as an "ageless classic" and "seriously covetable" will not could work for me. I may be middle-aged, but I know a classic piece of slick advertising when I see it. So, two lessons moving forward: Beware false advertising and always check the label!